update # 3

Date: Wed,

25 June, 1997

09:24:07 (PDT)

Subject: update

numero tres

ARLES

RTW Travels

10 June

Remington's cowboys and indians are long dead. Mona Lisa is history. Whistler's mother's rocker sits empty. But the Cafe la Nuit, the yellow bar that Vincent painted, is still open for business. The pool table is gone, so is the absinthe, but they will still serve a cold beer. Bulls are still fought at the 1st century Roman arena. And nearby, of course, the sunflowers still bloom.

Most of Van Gogh's paintings I have not even seen (yet), but there is something special in the way these classic images are brought to life here in Arles, in the southern (Provence) region of France. I've really enjoyed this little town. It is quaint but real. Sitting in the garden of our little hotel, surrounded by vines and flowers and a cool breeze, I realized one of the moments I had visualized when planning the trip.

Yesterday, we rented a car and drove around Provence, specifically to see the Pont du Gard, a first century Roman aquaduct, 51 km long and almost completely intact.Additionally, we stopped by the hill town of Le Baux. Much of the chateau and fort on the top, carved directly out of the stone, is still standing to climb on, around and through.

We've been here a week, relaxing and getting back into the spirit of our journey.  Last week, on our way to the Madrid train station at 6:45 am, we were robbed by three assholes we had just passed in the street. One of them snuck up behind us and grabbed ML's day pack, which I was carrying, and ran off. We shouted-screamed bloody hell is more like it- gave chase, stupidly, and to no avail. Although neither of us were hurt, and we are thankful for that, it is just such a violation when you are robbed. They robbed us of much of our good memories of Madrid as much as they robbed us of material goods. We lost ML's drivers license, credit cards and passport. The police were wonderfully helpful and supportive.