least I THINK that's what he was talking about. We walk away from many of these conversations somewhat unsure of exactly what the other person was describing. While wandering from hotel to hotel checking on rooms we met Stanislaus, a 60-year old Krakovite who had rooms to rent. So, now we are in a one bedroom apartment in a turn-of-the-century building of gigantic proportions for $22/night.

Krakov is an ancient city that survived WWII mostly intact. If I describe it, it will sound like many of the other ancient cities we've visited. However, I am happy to report it has a feel all its own that we really like. Hans and Gunther, the first officer and captain of the Palermo Senator, had both agreed in a late night whiskey drinking session that Poland had the world's most beautiful women. I am happy to report that they were MUCH more right than I thought at the time. ML is happy to report that where there are lots of pretty women, you find lots of handsome men.

The cyber cafe from which we are sending this is a tenth century cellar made of stone and brick with vaulted ceilings. Candles and patchouli incense burning at the tables complete the scene. The juxtaposition of computer terminals against all this antiquity is bizarre. The old monks or jailers who occupied this space would certainly think it was black magic.

More on Poland next time - for now it's off to the salt mines....

much love,
ml & v