One of our new-found friends, Gerald, was a pleasant, fun loving fellow who is a former customs official and long-time festival volunteer. When he found out where we were staying and that we'd been taking taxis, he was aghast and would have none of it. We were immediately invited to come and stay at his house. He had a "camping car" (an RV) parked in his backyard and we were welcome to it. He extended the invitation without his wife's knowledge and we protested. He insisted she would have no objections so we gladly accepted and made the move to his place the next morning.

Gerald lived in a pretty little beach community and we were soon settled in his camping car. He was right about his wife, Monique. She was a gracious, charming woman who made us feel quite at home. She even did our laundry for us. We were amazed and delighted at this apparantly common Breton hospitality and spent five days at the festival with Gerald and Monique as chauffeurs, interpretors, and tour guides.

We were proud to see the band Clandestine (Houston) listed in the festival program. We went to see them and they sounded great. Their performance was energetic and tight, with all the players seeming in cosmic musical communication with one another. Their original use of bongo percussion - uncharacteristic in Celtic music - particularly interested and energized the crowd. The bandÕs sound was fresh and unique and the crowd reacted enthusiastically. Some of our other favorites included Brendefolk (Breton), The Whistlebinkies (Scotland) and, of course, The Chieftains (Ireland), who were accompanied by gaita piper, Carlos Nunez, of Galicia.

With heaps of thank yous, we said goodbye to Gerald, Monique and France and headed to Edinburgh, Scotland for the Arts Festival. We heard very little music in Edinburgh. Instead, we saw more comedy and theater. Lacking the inside connections we had in Lorient, we were unable to get tickets to any of the main, soldout musical performances. We did enjoy the musical scene in the streets, though. The roving singers, dancers and pipers lent a carnival atmosphere to